Alana Chapko, preferably called Lani, grew up in Seattle, Washington with the North Cascades as a backdrop, then moved to California to pursue an engineering degree at Harvey Mudd College. Between classes and through weekend excursions she fostered a love for climbing and adventure. Upon graduation, Lani decided to pursue a career of guiding and hasn’t looked back since.

Lani has traveled all across the western US, Nepal, and South America to pursue dream lines and big adventures. She is a true lover of type II fun. Whether navigating storm conditions or trying hard on ice climbs.

“Nothing brings people together like shared experiences in the mountains. Some of my most memorable experiences guiding haven’t been on the summit, but seeing participants push themselves beyond what they thought possible. Pushing myself and learning from it is something I enjoy about climbing. It’s something I love helping students realize as well.”

“I think the best way to gain respect from your partners is to first fully believe in your own abilities and knowledge. All-women’s clinics provide a great space to build confidence in your own abilities and bring that confidence to your adventures and life.”

Lani is an AMGA Rock Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide.

Backcountry ice climbing San Juans